Seasonal Plants, Containers & Flowers

Wait until after May 1st in the Mid-South, as these plants require soil that is consistently warm. Planting when nighttime temperatures are still below 60 degrees can stunt their growth or cause bulbs to rot.

This is generally discouraged unless you place a barrier like landscape fabric between the filler and the soil. Without a barrier, the soil will wash down through the peanuts, lowering the level and potentially raising the water table into the root zone, causing rot.

No, pinch out the bloom spikes as soon as they appear. Caladiums are grown for their foliage, and allowing them to go to seed directs energy away from the leaves and stops new growth.

Yellowing is often a sign of a magnesium deficiency, sometimes called palm yellows. To address this, apply a drench of magnesium sulfate (Epsom salts) — about half a cup for a large pot — to boost chlorophyll production and green up the leaves.

Bloom time is often shortened by extreme heat or heavy rains. Once the flower is pollinated, the plant also naturally sheds its petals to focus energy on producing seeds.

Yes, plant them with the fan of the leaves pointing south. If planted facing north, they will naturally try to turn toward the sun, which can disrupt their growth.

The most common reason is that they are planted too deeply. The growth buds, called "eyes," need to be at or just barely below the soil surface. Even an inch or two too deep is sufficient to prevent blooming entirely.

A Hellebore, sometimes called a Lenten Rose, is a very hardy evergreen shade perennial that blooms in late winter or early spring when very little else is in flower. It thrives in dappled shade and is an excellent choice for difficult shaded spots in Mid-South gardens.

No. True hostas are at most a blue-green color. Photographs of intensely bright blue hostas in online advertisements are typically AI-generated or digitally altered. Purchase hostas from a local nursery where you can see the actual plant before buying.

Indian Pinks (Spigelia), Leopard Plant (Ligularia), Toad Lilies, and Bleeding Hearts are all well-suited to Mid-South shade conditions. Each offers distinct texture or seasonal color in areas where most other plants will not perform.

Cut them back in early to mid-March before new growth begins pushing up from the base. Leaving the old foliage standing through winter provides some visual interest in the garden and serves as shelter for small wildlife.

Yes. Tropical Milkweed provides energy for Monarchs during migration and is straightforward to grow as an annual in the Mid-South. Plant it in a sunny location and expect caterpillar feeding — that is a sign the plant is serving its intended purpose.

No. The ants are attracted to the sweet nectar secreted by the buds and cause no harm to the plant. It is a persistent myth that ants are required for Peony flowers to open; they are simply opportunistic visitors.

Yes, and they are underused in our area. Sedums are heat-tolerant and drought-resistant once established. They spread gradually, require very little care, and work well in containers, rock gardens, or as low-maintenance ground covers in sunny spots.

Old-fashioned Impatiens walleriana became highly susceptible to downy mildew, which devastated plantings broadly. SunPatiens have stronger stems, larger blooms, and strong resistance to downy mildew, making them a more reliable choice for Mid-South summers.

April 15th is the traditional last frost date for the Memphis area and marks the generally safe planting window. If you plant at or shortly after that date, be prepared to cover plants with frost cloth if a late cold snap is forecast, as cold spells can still occur into early May.

Bury the transplant deeply — up to 10 inches of a 12-inch plant — leaving only the top few leaves above ground. The buried stem produces additional roots along its entire length, creating a stronger and more drought-resilient plant.

It is difficult. In native clay, carrots typically remain short and misshapen because the dense soil resists root expansion. Raised beds filled with a loose, well-draining mix are a significantly better option for producing full-length carrots.

Yes. Tomatoes planted early have more time to establish and begin setting fruit before intense mid-summer heat arrives. Once daytime temperatures consistently exceed 95°F, tomato plants typically stop setting new fruit, so an early start translates directly into higher yields.

Yes. Varieties such as Cherokee Purple and Black Krim are valued for their rich, complex flavor and often higher acidity compared to standard red tomatoes. They also contain elevated levels of anthocyanins, the dark pigments responsible for their color.

Choose varieties that have Heuchera villosa in their parentage. These are significantly more tolerant of the Mid-South's combination of summer heat, humidity, and heavy wet winter soils than varieties bred for cooler or drier climates.

In late summer, move the pot to a cool, dry spot such as a garage and stop watering entirely. Allow the bulb to rest for about eight to ten weeks, then bring it back into warmth in early November and resume watering to trigger a new bloom cycle.

Yes. Carefully peel the wax from the bulb and repot it in standard potting soil. Treated as a regular Amaryllis from that point, it can be grown on and managed to rebloom the following year.

Most houseplants grow more slowly in winter due to reduced light and should be watered less frequently. In general, extend your watering interval from every seven to ten days in summer to every ten to fourteen days in winter. Always check the soil before watering rather than following a strict schedule.

Orchids are tropical plants that prefer room-temperature water. While the ice cube method has been widely promoted as convenient, tropical plant roots are adapted to warm conditions and cold water can potentially stress the roots. Water orchids with room-temperature water applied directly to the potting medium.

Fiddle Leaf Figs are sensitive to being moved and to overwatering. The most common cause of leaf drop is root rot from a soggy or poorly draining potting mix. Allow the top inch or two of soil to dry out before watering again, and avoid relocating the plant once it has settled into a position.

Yes. The Raven ZZ plant and the Black Velvet Alocasia both produce striking near-black leaves and are widely available. They tend to grow more slowly than their standard green counterparts but are otherwise cared for in the same way.

Indoor ferns shed primarily due to low humidity and warm, dry air. Keep the fern on the floor rather than hanging it near the ceiling, where temperatures can be 15 to 20 degrees warmer and significantly drier. Cooler, more humid air at floor level reduces shedding substantially.

Yes. Alocasia sap contains calcium oxalate crystals that can cause skin irritation and a tingling or burning sensation on contact. Wearing gloves when repotting or pruning eliminates the problem.

Use a quality seed-starting mix and provide intense light from a grow lamp positioned close to the seedlings. Once plants reach 8 to 10 inches, begin hardening them off by setting them outside on cool evenings to acclimatise gradually. Well-hardened transplants develop stockier, more resilient stems.

Plant onion sets at or very close to the surface rather than pushing them fully into the ground. In dense clay, planting too deep prevents the bulb from expanding properly and results in small or misshapen onions.

Yes. Both lotus and water lilies grow successfully in any waterproof container that holds water — a large pot, a half whiskey barrel, or a stock tank all work. They need full sun and regular fertilization to perform well in a contained environment.